专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the temporary shaping of hair and which contains a combination of two specific copolymers. The cosmetic composition offers an exceptionally good performance.
公开号:FR3060376A1
申请号:FR1761966
申请日:2017-12-12
公开日:2018-06-22
发明作者:Julia Bibiane Lange;Rene Scheffler;Diane Metten;Cyrielle Martinez
申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

Holder (s): HENKEL AG & CO. KGAA.
Extension request (s)
Agent (s): OFFICE ERNEST T. FREYLINGER S.A ..
AGENT AND METHOD FOR TEMPORARY SHAPING OF KERATINIC FIBERS.
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the temporary shaping of the hair and which contains a combination of two specific copolymers. The cosmetic composition provides exceptionally good hold.
FR 3 060 376 - A1
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for fixing the hair or rather for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, the composition comprising a combination of two specific crosslinked copolymers.
The temporary shaping of hairstyles for a long period of time up to several days generally requires the application of fixing active principles. This is why the hair treatment agents which serve to temporarily shape the hair, play an important role. The temporary formatting agents in question generally contain, as fixing active principle, synthetic polymers and / or waxes. Aid agents for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers can for example be formulated as a spray, wax, gel or hair mousse.
The main property of a temporary hair shaping agent, also called styling agent below, consists in giving the treated fibers the best possible hold in the new modeled shape, that is to say a shape given to hair. We also talk about good hairstyle or high degree of fixing of the styling agent. The holding of the hairstyle is essentially determined by the type and amount of active fixing ingredient used, even if the other ingredients of the styling agent can also have an influence.
In addition to a high degree of fixation, styling agents must meet a variety of other conditions. These can be broadly divided into properties for the hair, properties linked to the corresponding formulation, such as the properties of spray aerosols, and properties relating to the handling of the styling product, the properties for the hair being of importance. particular. These include moisture resistance, poor adhesion (tackiness) and a balanced formulation effect. In addition, a styling agent should be able to be used universally on all hair types as far as possible and it should be gentle on the hair and skin.
To fulfill these various conditions, numerous synthetic polymers, which are applied in styling agents, have already been developed as fixing active principles. These polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric fixing polymers. Ideally, the polymers give, when applied to the hair, a polymer film, which gives on the one hand good hold to the hairstyle, but on the other hand which is flexible enough not to break in the event of stress . If the polymer film is too fragile, so-called film plates are formed, that is to say residues which come off with the movements of the hair and which give the impression that the user of the styling agent in question has dandruff. Similar problems arise when waxes are used as the fixing active ingredient in the styling agent. If the styling agent is a gel or a paste, the polymers must also have thickening properties.
The known anionic polymers which are used in hair fixing products are acrylate copolymers having two or more structural units. Some of these copolymers which bear the trade name Aculyn® 33A (INCI: Acrylates Copolymer), and their use in cosmetic compositions for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers are described in the German patent application DE 10 2007 053 954 A1 .
Other anionic polymers used in hair fixing products are crosslinked anionic amphiphilic polymers, comprising a (meth) acrylic acid unit and a (meth) acrylic acid and oxyalkylenealkyl ester unit. Polymers of this type are described in international patent application WO 2016/142013 A1 and are for example commercially available under the name BALANCE® RTF (INCI: Acrylates / Cete3060376 areth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer). In styling products, this polymer essentially plays the role of thickening agent and film-forming agent.
The present invention aims to provide other combinations of suitable polymers which are distinguished by good film-forming and / or fixing properties and which have a very high degree of fixing without sacrificing flexibility and good resistance to humidity, in particular. resistance to water and perspiration and which are moreover indicated for the manufacture of viscous and transparent stable cosmetic compositions. In particular, the styling agents currently available can be further improved in the sense that a good combination of rigidity (Stiffness) and long-lasting hold (High Humidity Curl Retention) is not always sufficiently guaranteed. The present invention therefore aims to prepare styling agents of this type which in particular give good rigidity as good long-lasting hold in addition to the above-mentioned properties.
This object was achieved, according to the invention, by a combination of two specific anionic copolymers.
The present invention makes it possible to prepare a:
1. cosmetic composition for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, which contains:
(a) at least one acrylate copolymer (a) consisting of at least the following monomer units:
(a1) at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit (a2) at least one (meth) acrylate unit and (b) at least one crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) different from the copolymer a), which consists at least of following structural units (b1) and (b2):
C = O
I
O 'M + ch 2 çh 2 ό
(b1) (b2) where
R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R 3 represents an alkyl group (C 8 -C 30 ),
M + represents a physiologically acceptable cation and x represents an integer between 5 and 35.
2. cosmetic agent according to point 1, in which the at least one acrylate copolymer (a) consists, relative to its total weight, of at least 90% by weight, preferably of at least 95% by weight and in particular at least 97% by weight of the monomers (a1) (meth) acrylic acid unit and (a2) (meth) acrylate unit.
3. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the acrylate copolymer (a) has an acrylate unit, preferably an alkyl acrylate (C1-4) as monomer unit (a2).
4. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the composition contains the copolymer (a) in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7.0% by weight , more preferably from 0.7 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
5. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the anionic copolymer (a) is a polymer bearing the name INCI Acrylates Copolymer, in particular Aculyn® 33A (Rohm & Haas).
6. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the radical R 1 in the structural unit (b1) represents a methyl group.
7. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which R 3 in the structural unit (b2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) represents an alkyl group (C12-C20), more preferably a alkyl group (C 14 -C 2 o) and in particular an alkyl group (C 16 -C 18).
8. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which R 3 in the structural unit (b2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) represents a combination of linear C 16 and Ci 8 alkyl groups.
9. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the x in the structural unit (b2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) represents an integer ranging from 10 to 24, more preferably 16 to 22, most preferably equal to 20.
10. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the composition contains the anionic copolymer (b) in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7.0% by weight. weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
11. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the anionic acrylate copolymer (b) is a polymer bearing the name INCI Acrylates / Ceteareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, in particular BALANCE® RCF (AkzoNobel).
12. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the anionic copolymer (a) is Aculyn® 33A (Rohm & Haas) and the anionic copolymer (b) is BALANCE® RCF (AkzoNobel).
13. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, which contains, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition:
0.1 to 10% by weight of the anionic copolymer (a), and 0.1 to 10% by weight of the anionic copolymer (b).
14. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points containing, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition:
0.7 to 5.0% by weight of the anionic copolymer (a), and 0.7 to 5.0% by weight of the anionic copolymer (b).
15. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the composition also contains at least one polymer (c) different from the copolymers (a) and (b), in particular an anionic or nonionic polymer (c).
16. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, characterized in that it also contains, relative to its total weight,
c) polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidoneavinyl acetate, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone.
17. cosmetic composition according to point 16, characterized in that the proportion by weight of the polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or of the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer c) represents, in the total weight of the cosmetic composition, 1.0 to 10% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 8.5% by weight and in particular 3.0 to 7.0% by weight.
18. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the composition contains water and the weight share of water in the total weight of the cosmetic composition represents 50 and 95% by weight, preferably 60 and 90% by weight and in particular 65 and 85% by weight.
19. cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, in which the composition is in the form of a gel, spray, foam or hair wax, in particular in the form of a hair gel.
20. use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 19 for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers.
21. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 19 for improving the behavior of temporarily shaped keratin fibers.
22. process for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to one of points 1 to 19 is applied to the keratin fibers.
In the context of the present invention, it has been made the surprising discovery that it is possible to improve the staying power of styling products by combining two ingredients known in themselves and which are already used in styling products. In doing so, other properties generally required of styling products, such as resistance to humidity, rigidity or low tack, have been preserved. Obtaining such a good combination of properties was not predictable even after knowing each component and caused surprise. Experimentation has revealed that the combination of the two components has made it possible to obtain a tenfold, therefore synergistic, effect with regard to the holding, which was manifested during the 3PB test (3-point bending test) .
The concept of keratin fibers according to the invention includes furs, wool and feathers, but especially human hair.
The main ingredients of the cosmetic composition according to the invention are the copolymer (a) and the crosslinked copolymer (b), different from the copolymer (a).
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains the copolymer (a) and the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) in usual amounts and suitable for styling agents, which may be suitable for the specific application and formulation.
The composition according to the invention may contain the copolymer (a) for example in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Parts of the copolymer (a) of 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, and in particular of 0.7 to 5.0% by weight are more preferred, respectively expressed as the content of dry residue of active substance in the composition cosmetic.
The anionic acrylate copolymer (a) is composed of at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit (a1) and at least one (meth) acrylate unit (a2).
According to the invention, the copolymer (a) can consist of other structural units. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer (a) consists only of the units (a1) and (a2), that is to say that it consists of units derived from these monomeric units.
The at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit (a1) can be a methacrylic acid unit or an acrylic acid unit, an acrylic acid unit being preferred.
The at least one (meth) acrylate unit (a2) can be a methacrylate unit or an acrylate unit, an acrylate unit, in particular an alkyl acrylate unit (in C1-4), being preferred.
Particularly preferred structural units (a2) are methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl acrylate, propyl methacrylate, acrylate. isopropyl, isopropyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate and butyl methacrylate.
Suitable anionic acrylate copolymers (a) are commercially available under the name INCI Acrylates Copolymer. Most preferably, the anionic acrylate copolymer (a) is Aculyn® 33A from Rohm & Haas. This has, in the commercially available form, a dry residue content of approximately 27.5 to 28.5% by weight and a pH value of
2.1 to 3.5.
Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers contain:
(a) at least one crosslinked copolymer (a) consisting of at least the following monomer units:
(a1) at least one acrylic acid unit (a2) at least one alkyl acrylate unit (in C1-4) and (b) at least one crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) different from the copolymer a), which is constituted at least the following structural units (b1) and (b2):
(b1) (b2) where
R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R 3 represents an alkyl group (C 8 -C 30 ),
M + represents a physiologically acceptable cation and x represents an integer between 5 and 35.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b), for example. in a proportion, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 5, 0% by weight, respectively expressed as the content of dry residue of active substance in the cosmetic composition.
The crosslinked anionic acrylate copolymer (b) consists of at least the following structural units (b1) and (b2).
The crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) is amphiphilic due to the structural units it contains. By “amphiphilic”, a person skilled in the art generally understands that a single molecule comprises hydrophilic structural elements (for example those of formula (b1)) and lipophilic structural elements (for example, those of formula (b2)).
In the formulas given above and all the following formulas, a chemical bond characterized by the symbol "*" represents a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment In particular, metal cations of physiologically acceptable metals from groups la, Ib, lia, llb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the periodic table of the elements, ammonium ions and cationic organic compounds containing a quaternary nitrogen atom are suitable as physiologically acceptable M + cations for the compensation of the negative charge of amphiphilic, anionic polymers. The latter are formed for example by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2trimethylammonioethanol.
By "crosslinked" or "crosslinked" is meant in the sense of the invention, the combination of polymer chains together by covalent chemical bond, forming a network. This covalent combination of the polymer chains can take place by direct covalent bond or these chains are linked by a fragment of molecule bridging the polymer chains. The molecule fragment binds to the polymer chains bridged by the molecule fragment in each case by means of a covalent chemical bond.
The crosslinking of the crosslinked copolymers and (b) can preferably be carried out using at least one crosslinking monomer. It is also preferable here to choose the crosslinking monomers of at least one compound from the group which consists of polyunsaturated aromatic monomers (such as divinylbenzene, divinylnaphthalene, trivinylbenzene), of polyunsaturated alicyclic monomers (such as 1,2 , 4-trivinylcyclohexane), di-functional esters of phthalic acid (such as diallyl phthalate), polyunsaturated aliphatic monomers (such as, for example, dienes, trienes, tetraenes such as isoprene, 1,3 -butadiene, 1,5-hexadiene, 1,5,9-decatriene, 1,9decadiene, 1,5-heptadiene), polyalkenyl ethers (such as triallylpentaerythritol, diallyipentaerythritol, diallyiic sucrose, sucrose octaallyl, diethyl ether of trimethylolpropane), polyunsaturated esters of polyalcohols or polyacids (such as 1,6hexanedioldi (meth) acrylate, tetramethylenetri (meth) acrylate, allyl acrylate, diallyl itaconate , diallyl fumarate, maleate diallyl, trimethylolpropanetri (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropanedi (meth) acrylate, polyethylene glycoldi (meth) acrylate), alkylene bis acrylamides (such as methylene bis acrylamide, propylene bis acrylamide), hydroxy and carboxy derivatives of methylene bis acrylamide (such as N.N'-bismethylolmethylenebisacrylamide), polyethylene glycol di (meth) acrylates (such as ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate), diethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate), di (meth) triethylene glycol acrylate), polyunsaturated silanes (such as, for example, dimethyldivinylsilane, methyltrivinylsilane, allyldimethylvinylsilane, diallyldimethylsilane, tetravinylsilane), acrylamide of Nmethylol; N-alkoxyl (meth) acrylamide, the alkoxyl group being an alkoxyl group (C1 to C18), of unsaturated hydrolysable silanes (such as triethoxyvinylsilane, trisisopropoxyvinylsilane, 3-triethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate), of hydrolysable silanes (such as ethyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane), hydrolyzable epoxy-substituted silanes (such as 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) ethyltriethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethyoxysilane), polyisocyanates (such as 1,4-diisocyanatobutane 6diisocyanatohexane, 1,4-phenylenediisocyanate, 4,4'-oxybis (phenylisocyanate), unsaturated epoxides (such as glycidyl methacrylates, allyl glycidyl ether), polyepoxides (such as diglycidyl ether , 1,2,5,6-diepoxyhexane, ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether), ethoxylated polyols (such as diols, triols and diphenols, ethoxylated respectively with 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of hydroxyl and terminated groups by a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as for example vinyl ethers, allyl ethers, acrylate esters, methacrylate esters; examples which may be mentioned are di (meth) acrylate ethoxylated with bisphenol A, di (meth) acrylate ethoxylated with bisphenol F, tri (meth) acrylate ethoxylated of trimethylolpropane, acrylate and methacrylate esters polyols having at least two functionalities of acrylate ester or methacrylate ester (such as trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA), trimethylolpropaneethoxylated triacrylate (15) (TMPEO15TA), trimethylolpropane dimethacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate ( TEGDMA), with 30 moles of ethoxylated dimethylacrylate ethylene oxide with bisphenol A (EOBDMA)).
According to the invention, the copolymer (b) can consist of other structural units. In a preferred embodiment, the copolymer (b) consists of at least 30% by weight, preferably from 40 to 98% by weight and in particular at least from 50 to 95% by weight of the monomers (b1) and ( b2). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer (b) consists only of the units (b1), and of the units (b2) and of crosslinking, that is to say that it consists of these units structural.
The at least one unit (b1) is a (meth) acrylic acid unit, and can, according to the invention, be a methacrylic acid and / or acrylic acid unit. In a particularly preferred manner, the unit (b1) is a methacrylic acid unit (R 1 in the formula (b1) represents a methyl group). Corresponding acrylate copolymers (b) have been found to be particularly advantageous from the cosmetic point of view.
Preferably, the x in the structural unit (b2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) represents an integer ranging from 10 to 24, more preferably from 16 to 22, most preferably equal to 20.
Preferably, R 3 in unit (b2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) represents a (C12-C20) alkyl group, more preferably a (C14-C20) alkyl group, preferably also a (C 16 Ci 8 ) alkyl group. The alkyl group is preferably linear, but can also be branched. R 3 represents in particular a combination of linear C 16 and C 18 alkyl groups, therefore stearyl and cetyl groups (INCI: Ceteareth). Corresponding acrylate copolymers (b) have been found to be particularly advantageous from the cosmetic point of view.
Most preferably, the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) present is a polymer bearing the name INCI Acrylates / Ceteareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer. Very particularly preferably, the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) is a polymer which is available under the trade name BALANCE® RCF (AkzoNobel). The latter is a dispersion at about 30% by weight in water.
Other preferred crosslinked acrylate copolymers (b) bear the name INCI Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer. In these, the at least one unit (a1) is a (meth) acrylic acid unit, and can, according to the invention, be a methacrylic acid and / or acrylic acid unit. They have 20 ethylene oxide units and are etherified with stearyl alcohol. Such a polymer is, for example, available under the trade name Aculyn® 88 (Rohm & Haas). This has in the commercially available form a dry residue content of about 28 to 33% by weight and a depH value of 3.3 to 4.3.
In addition to the aforementioned advantages, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are distinguished from other cosmetic products in particular by better long-term resistance. A weight ratio between polymers a) and b) in the cosmetic composition of 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3 and in particular from 2: 1 to 1: 2 has been found to be particularly advantageous for the cosmetic properties of the agents according to the invention.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains as copolymer (a) the copolymer commercially available under the name Aculyn® 33A, and as crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b), the copolymer available in trade under the name BALANCE® RCF. With this combination, particularly good results have been obtained in terms of combination of rigidity and long-term resistance. This combination of polymers is particularly advantageous for styling products in the form of a gel.
Other properties generally required for styling products, such as, for example. resistance to humidity and low tack are obtained in particular with this combination, in particular in the formulation as a hair gel.
The copolymers (a) and (b) are preferably used in the cosmetic composition in neutralized or partially neutralized form. Preferably, at least one amino alcohol is used for neutralization. The amino alcohols which can be used as alkalinizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 alkyl base body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred amino alcohols are selected from the group consisting of 2 aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), trihydroxyethylamine (triethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1- ol, 1-aminopropan-2ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1- ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3 aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Amino alcohols very particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the group comprising 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2methyl-propane-1,3-diol . In this context, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol has proven to be a particularly well-suited neutralizing agent. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention therefore contain 2-amino-2methylpropanol. The 2-amino-2-methylpropanol is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in an amount which does not exceed the amount required for the neutralization of the copolymers (a) and (b). Preferably, the amounts of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol used in the compositions according to the invention represent 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100% and particularly preferably 95 to 100% of the amount required for complete neutralization of the copolymers (a) and (b). In a preferred embodiment, the share of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol in the total weight of the cosmetic agent represents 0.05 to 7.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3.0% by weight.
In summary, a preferred cosmetic composition for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers contains, relative to its total weight:
(a) 0.7% to 5.0% by weight of at least one acrylate copolymer (a) consisting of at least the following monomer units:
(a1) at least one acrylic acid unit (a2) at least one alkyl acrylate unit (in C1-4) and (b) 0.7 to 5.0% by weight of at least one crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) different from the copolymer (a), and which consists at least of the following structural units (b1) and (b2):
Me
Rl
C = O
O- M + (b1)
CH 2 çh 2
O r3 X (b2) where
R 1 represents a methyl group,
R 3 represents an alkyl group (C14-C20),
M + represents a physiologically acceptable cation and x represents an integer between 16 and 22
Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains one or more additional component (s) which is / are different from the copolymers (a) and (b) and stimulate, for example, thickening agents or gelling or film training. Examples that may be mentioned are cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers. The share of this additional component in the total weight of the cosmetic composition can be comparatively low due to the presence of components (a) and (b) and represents for example 0.02 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0 0.05 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight.
Examples that may be mentioned are: Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamides / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetolyethyl Acrylate Copolymer , Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / C 1-2 Succinates / Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylate / Stearyl Acrylate / Ethy lamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Acrylate / Diphen / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer / Adophic Acid / Acid
Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl StearateA / A Copolymer, Aminoethylacrylate Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, AminoethylpropanediolAcrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD-Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylcryler / Amylium Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylcropyrate Copolymer AMP-Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMPAcrylates / Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran Extract / Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis- Butyloxyamodimylicone / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer , Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copyler Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Di methacrylate Crosspolymer, MEASulfite, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer / Copylate Copylate SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylate-6, Polybeta-Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, Polyethylacrylate, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polymethacryloyl Ethyl Betaine, Polypentaerythrityl Terephthalate Polyopherhalen Polyopherhalen, Polyproperaten Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaterniu m-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium
18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium33, Polyquaternium-34 35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium50, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polyurethane-9, Polyurethane 1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-70 -10 Ether, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / ltaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Co polymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid / lsophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbonon Cronotylonon Cronotropon / Cranonotropin Cranonotropin / Cranotropin Cranotropin / Cranotropin Cranotropin / Cranotropin Cranonotropin / Cranotropin Cranotropin / Cranotropin Cranotropin / Cronotropin Cranotropin / Cronotropin Cranotropin / Cranotropin Cranotropin / Cronotropin Cranotropinate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Acryl / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate and Styrene / VP Copolymer.
The additional component which acts as a gelling agent is preferably a homopolyacrylic acid (INCI: Carbomer), which is commercially available under the name Carbopol® in different versions. The carbomer is preferably present in a proportion ranging from 0.02 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.8% by weight , relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In order to further improve their cosmetic effect, preferred compositions additionally contain, in addition to the copolymers (a) and (b) and an optionally added thickening agent or a gelling agent, a film-forming polymer (c) different from these ingredients, in particular an anionic or nonionic polymer (c).
Examples of non-ionic polymers include:
- vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold for example under the registered trademark Luviskol (BASF). Luviskol VA 64 and Luviskol VA 73, both vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are preferred nonionic polymers.
- a cellulose ether such as, for example, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose or methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as sold for example under the registered trademarks Culminai and Benecel (AQUALON).
- shellac.
- Polyvinylpyrrolidone as marketed for example under the designation Luviskol (BASF).
- siloxanes. These siloxanes can either be soluble in water or insoluble in water. Volatile but also non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, knowing that non-volatile siloxanes are understood to mean compounds whose boiling point is greater than 200 ° C. at normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and also polydialkylsiloxanes comprising amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
- glycosidically substituted silicones.
Due to their cosmetic effect in combination with the copolymers a) and b), the film-forming polymers preferably used according to the invention are polyvinylpyrrolidones (INCI name: PVP) as well as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers (INCI name VP / VA Copolymer). The part by weight of these polymers is preferably limited to proportions of between 1.0 and 10% by weight. Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they additionally contain, relative to their total weight, 1.0 to 10% by weight of polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or of vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents have a share by weight of polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or of vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer c) in the total weight of the cosmetic agent from 2.0 to 8.5% by weight, preferably 3 0.0 to 7.0% by weight.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain other substances typical of styling products. As other suitable excipients and adjuvants, particular mention is made of additional care agents.
In terms of care agents, the agent can for example contain at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives. Protein hydrolysates are mixtures of products which are obtained by the degradation of proteins by acid, basic or enzymatic catalysis. Under the term protein hydrolysates is also meant, according to the invention, total hydrolysates, individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molar mass of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molar mass of glycine, and 200,000, the molar mass preferably ranging from 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably from 75 to 20,000 Dalton.
In terms of care agents, the agents according to the invention may also contain at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives. According to the invention, the vitamins, provitamins and precursors of vitamins generally associated with groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred.
Like the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed during the application of the agent according to the invention.
In terms of care agents, the agents according to the invention can also comprise at least one plant extract, but also monosaccharides or oligosaccharides and / or lipids.
In addition, oily bodies are suitable as a care agent. Natural and synthetic cosmetic oily bodies are included, for example, vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffinic oils and synthetic hydrocarbons as well as di-n-alkyl ethers containing in total 12 to 36 atoms of carbon, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain at least one oily body, preferably at least one oily body from the group of silicone oils. The group of silicone oils includes in particular dimethicones among which there are also cyclomethicones, aminofunctional silicones as well as dimethiconols. Dimethicones can be both linear and branched or cyclic, or cyclic and branched. Suitable oils or silicone gums are in particular the dialkylsiloxanes and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated, quaternary or even anionic derivatives. Cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or amino derivatives, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes are preferred.
Other preferred care oily bodies are esterified oils, that is to say esters of C6-C30 fatty acid and C2-C30 fatty alcohol, preferably monoesters of fatty acids and d '' alcohols containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms such as isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), C16-18 alkyl ester of isononanoic acid (Cetiol® SN), 2ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24 ), 2-ethylhexyl ester of stearic acid (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC), stearate n-butyl, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristylic myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V) .
Also suitable as care agents are dicarboxylic acid esters, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid and fatty alcohols, triesters of linear and / or branched saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids and glycerol or partial glycerides of fatty acids, which include monoglycerides, diglycerides and their industrial mixtures.
In addition, emulsifiers or surfactants are preferably present in the composition according to the invention. The PEG derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil are preferred, which are available under the name PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil, for example PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG33 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. The use of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is preferred according to the invention. These are preferably present in an amount of 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, also more preferably 0.2 to 0.8 % by weight or 0.3 to 0.6% by weight.
The cosmetic agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients or substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic media preferably containing at least 10% by weight of water, calculated relative to the total weight of the agent.
In a particularly preferred manner, the cosmetically acceptable support contains water, in particular in an amount such that the cosmetic agent contains, calculated relative to the total weight of the agent, at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 20.0% by weight, most preferably at least 40% by weight of water. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents have, relative to their total weight, a proportion of water ranging from 50 to 95% by weight, preferably from 60 to 90% by weight and in particular from 65 to 85% by weight.
The alcohols present may in particular be the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms generally used for cosmetic purposes, such as for example ethanol or isopropanol.
Examples of water-soluble solvents as cosolvent are glycerol and / or ethylene glycol and / or 1,2-propylene glycol in a proportion of 0 to 30% by weight relative to the whole of l 'agent.
Summary table
The composition of certain preferred cosmetic agents is found in the following tables (data expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic agent, unless otherwise indicated).
Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula5 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula1a Formula2a Formula 3a Formula4a Formula5a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula1b Formula2b Form 3b Formula4b Formula5b Aculyn® 33A (dataexpressed in contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula 6 Formula 7 Formula 8 Formula 9 Formula10 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula6a Formula7a Formula8a Formula9a Formula10a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula6b Formula7b Formula8b Formula9b Formula10b Aculyn® 33A (data expressed as contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula11 Formula12 Formula13 Formula14 Formula15 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer ofvinylpyrrolidone / acetatevinyl 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula11a Formula12a Formula13a Formula14a Formula15a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer ofvinylpyrrolidone / acetatevinyl 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula11b Formula12b Formula13b Formula14b Formula15b Aculyn® 33A (dataexpressed in contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer ofvinylpyrrolidone / acetatevinyl 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula16 Formula17 Formula18 Formula19 Formula20 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.4 to 0.8 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula16a Formula17a Formula18a Formula19a Formula20a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.4 to 0.8 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula16b Formula17b Formula18b Formula19b Formula20b Aculyn® 33A (dataexpressed in contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0
BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.4 to 0.8 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula21 Formula22 Formula23 Formula24 Formula25 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Castor oilhydrogenated PEG-40 0.05 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.0 0.2 to 0.9 0.3 to 0.8 0.4 to 0.6 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula21a Formula22a Formula23a Formula24a Formula25a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Castor oilhydrogenated PEG-40 0.05 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.0 0.2 to 0.9 0.3 to 0.8 0.4 to 0.6 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula21b Formula22b Formula23b Formula24b Formula25b Aculyn® 33A (dataexpressed in contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Castor oilhydrogenated PEG-40 0.05 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.0 0.2 to 0.9 0.3 to 0.8 0.4 to 0.6
Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula26 Formula27 Formula28 Formula29 Formula30 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula26a Formula27a Formula28a Formula29a Formula30a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula26b Formula27b Formula28b Formula29b Formula30b Aculyn® 33A (data expressed as contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula31 Formula32 Formula33 Formula34 Formula35 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0
Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula31a Formula32a Formula33a Formula34a Formula35a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula31b Formula32b Formula33b Formula34b Formula35b Aculyn® 33A (dataexpressed in contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula36 Formula37 Formula38 Formula39 Formula40 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer ofvinylpyrrolidone / acetatevinyl 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula36a Formula37a Formula38a Formula39a Formula40a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer ofvinylpyrrolidone / acetatevinyl 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula36b Formula37b Formula38b Formula39b Formula40b Aculyn® 33A (data expressed as contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer ofvinylpyrrolidone / acetatevinyl 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.5 2.0 to 8.5 3.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 7.0 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula41 Formula42 Formula43 Formula44 Formula45 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.4 to 0.8 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula41a Formula42a Formula43a Formula44a Formula45a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.4 to 0.8 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula41b Formula42b Formula43b Formula44b Formula45b Aculyn® 33A (data expressed as contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Carbomer 0.02 to 3.0 0.05 to 2.0 0.05 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.4 to 0.8 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula46 Formula47 Formula48 Formula49 Formula50 Copolymer a) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Copolymer b) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Castor oilhydrogenated PEG-40 0.05 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.0 0.2 to 0.9 0.3 to 0.8 0.4 to 0.6 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula46a Formula47a Formula48a Formula49a Formula50a Acrylates Copolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0
Acrylates / Ceteareth-20MethacrylateCrosspolymer 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Castor oilhydrogenated PEG-40 0.05 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.0 0.2 to 0.9 0.3 to 0.8 0.4 to 0.6 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
Formula46b Formula47b Formula48b Formula49b Formula50b Aculyn® 33A (data expressed as contentdry residue) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 BALANCE® RCF(data expressed indry residue content) 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.5 to 7.0 0.6 to 4.0 0.7 to 5.0 Castor oilhydrogenated PEG-40 0.05 to 1.5 0.1 to 1.0 0.2 to 0.9 0.3 to 0.8 0.4 to 0.6 Water 50 to 95 50 to 95 60 to 90 60 to 90 65 to 85 Various add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100
By Miscellaneous is meant according to the invention a cosmetic support, in particular (unless otherwise mentioned) water and possibly other ingredients typical of styling products.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be formulated in typical forms for the temporary shaping of the hair, for example as a gel, spray, mousse or hair wax. The formulation as a hair gel is preferred.
Both hair mousse and sprays require the presence of propellants. According to the invention, however, it should not be used for hydrocarbons or only minimal quantities, preferably. Propane, propane / butane mixtures and dimethyl ether are particularly suitable propellants according to the invention.
The present invention also relates to the use of cosmetic compositions according to the invention for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, as well as a process for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, especially of human hair in which cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to keratin fibers.
Another object of this patent application is the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for improving the behavior of temporarily shaped keratin fibers.
Examples
The following hair gels were produced:
Component / materialfirst INCI name or designationchemical V1 V2 E1 Aculyn® 33A 1 Acrylates / NeodecanoateCrosspolymer 3.5 1.75 BALANCE® RCF 2 Acrylates / Ceteareth-20Methacrylate Crosspolymer 3.3 1.65 AMP-ULTRA PC 2000 Aminomethyl propanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 Water 96.2 96.4 96.3 Total 100 100 100
27.5% by weight of active substance in water 30% by weight of active substance in water
The amounts indicated in the table are expressed as a percentage by weight of the respective raw material, relative to the total composition. The polymer content in each of compositions V1, V2 and E1 was
1.0% by weight.
For the styling agents obtained, the maximum hold (N) was determined using a 3PB test (3-point bending test) on washed Kerling locks of hair (average value for a determination on 5 locks of hair respectively ):
V1 V2 E1 Fmax 2.0 2.4 2.9
The combination of polymers E1 according to the invention thus revealed a synergistic effect, clearly increased tenfold in terms of maximum hold.
权利要求:
Claims (10)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, which contains:
(a) at least one acrylate copolymer (a) consisting of at least the following monomer units:
(a1) at least one (meth) acrylic acid unit (a2) at least one (meth) acrylate unit and (b) at least one crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) different from the copolymer a), which consists at least of following structural units (b1) and (b2):
Me
C = O i
O'M + = O
O
R 3 (b1) (b2) where
R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R 3 represents an alkyl group (C 8 -C 3 o),
M + represents a physiologically acceptable cation and x represents an integer between 5 and 35.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the acrylate copolymer (a) has an acrylate unit, preferably an alkyl acrylate (C1-4) as monomer unit (a2).
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition contains the copolymer (a) in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7.0% by weight. , more preferably from 0.7 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the radical R 1 in the structural unit (b1) represents a methyl group.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which R 3 in the structural unit (b2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) represents a combination of linear Cw and Ci 8 alkyl groups.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the x in the structural unit (b2) of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer (b) represents an integer ranging from 10 to 24, more preferably 16 to 22, most preferably equal to 20.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition contains the anionic copolymer (b) in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7.0% by weight. weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition contains water and the weight proportion of water in the total weight of the cosmetic composition represents 50 and 95% by weight, preferably 60 and 90% by weight and in particular 65
5 and 85% by weight.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Process for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the keratin fibers.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
FR3060376B1|2021-01-08|
US20180168989A1|2018-06-21|
GB2561046A|2018-10-03|
DE102016225465A1|2018-06-21|
US10835474B2|2020-11-17|
GB201721122D0|2018-01-31|
GB2561046B|2021-10-13|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

DE102007053954A1|2007-11-09|2009-05-14|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|High-retention styling agent with moisture V|
DE102009001978A1|2009-03-30|2010-10-07|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Keratin-containing fiber composition comprising at least one specific crosslinked amphiphilic anionic polymer and at least one other specific uncrosslinked amphiphilic anionic polymer|
DE102015204146A1|2015-03-09|2016-09-15|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"|
DE102015204149A1|2015-03-09|2016-09-15|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"|
DE102015204150A1|2015-03-09|2016-09-15|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"|
DE102015204148A1|2015-03-09|2016-09-15|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"|DE102015204149A1|2015-03-09|2016-09-15|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"|
DE102015204150A1|2015-03-09|2016-09-15|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"|
DE102015204148A1|2015-03-09|2016-09-15|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers"|
DE102017217454A1|2017-09-29|2019-04-04|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Means and methods for temporary deformation of keratinous fibers|
法律状态:
2019-12-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
2020-05-15| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20200515 |
2020-12-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
2021-12-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
DE102016225465.0|2016-12-19|
DE102016225465.0A|DE102016225465A1|2016-12-19|2016-12-19|Means and methods for temporary deformation of keratinous fibers|
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